Back in North America
Mexico City gets a pretty bad rap from most travellers. Most people associate it with rampant over-population, shockingly polluted air and being quite literally one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Given all of this I wasn´t too excited about the prospects of coming here.
When Katie asked me if I was sure I needed to go to Mexico I replied with a less than confident "I think so..." And as I rode in the cab toward the airport in Cartegena I seriously pondered what would happen if I just turned back around and went to the hotel.
Katie and had met only 4 days earlier, but we hit it off right away. Maybe it was because our paths crossed on a boat heading to paradise. Well it was actually Cabo San Juan de Guia in Parque Nacional Tayarona, but within about 30 seconds of getting there we both agreed it was paradise.
Maybe I was just hoping that as a practicing psychologist she could provide some free psychotherapy. But if she managed to figure out any of my many pathologies she didn´t clue me in, which is probably for the best. She didn´t even bat an eye when I destroyed her camera, for which she has my eternal gratitude and admiration. In any case we spent the next 2 days with our hammocks strung up next to each other, enjoying the sun, water and fresh fish that came with paradise.
After a hop, skip and a jump we were in Cartegena and it was time for me to leave. Throughout my travels I´ve noticed that some goodbyes have taken far too long while others have come with such haste one cannot even process the surrealness of that one instant.
With all of this on my mind as my flight began it´s descent into Mexico City I cringed at the fact that I was now here. It all seemed like such a good idea when it came to me about a week ago. Mexico is close to the US. I need to go back to the US at some point, so why not just go to Mexico instead and somehow make my way north???
I knew nothing about Mexico City of course, except all of the things that were now turning me of to it. And I had no idea where I was going to spend the night as usual. But I found a pretty nice hostel fairly quickly without incident and spent the next day exploring the town.
And much to my suprise I´m finding I kinda like it. It´s full of beautiful colonial architecture, wide tree-lined streets and monuments to seemingly everything and anything even remotely related to the nation´s history. And after a few months of complaining about the difficulty of finding a good cheap meal in South America I´m absolutely in love with the culture of street food, although needless to say there are some drawbacks.
And there is something comforting about looking at a map of Mexico. It´s like Bob Dylan or the Grateful Dead laid out a song book right there in our neighbor to the south. Cities with names like Durango and Acapulco, Oaxaca and Ixtapa, Tabasco and Tequila just excite the imagination. I don´t know exactly what route I´ll take, but I already know the destination.
No later than Oct 22nd I will be in San Diego. The thoughts of how exactly to put the pieces of my life back together and what exactly this wonderful insightful "plan" that everyone assumes I have already figured out are bouncing around my skull. But for the time being I´m going to try to enjoy this, the last leg of what has been a wonderful journey, a long strange trip indeed.
Sunday, September 24, 2006
Friday, September 22, 2006
PADI Certified
I´d finally figured out the secret to Scuba diving, which it turns out is the same as the secret to life. Just keep breathing. But things were getting a little more nuanced under the water and I was feeling like maybe these guys should be teaching me a thing or two about Scuba diving since I was taking a scuba diving course through them.
Taganga is a little fishing village about 1/2 bus ride from Santa Marta, set inside a beautiful bay. It has about 1000 people, 1 paved street and 5 of the cheapest Scuba Diving schools in the world. I picked Oceano because they had the most expensive boat and the cheapest tractor. The first two course days had gone great. Moments after showing up the first day I was falling off of a boat backwards and marvelling at the wonderful world of Jacque Cousteau that lay before me.
The 6th dive was a little different. We descended to 70 feet inside the boundries of Parque Nacional Tayarona, the premier diving spot in mainland Colombia. It started out fine as we cruised along admiring the colorful reefs and fish all around us. Then the Spanish guy and I bumped into each other. I think it was his fault, but since he´s a certified dive master and I don´t know what the heck I´m doing, I´m probably wrong.
He was fine but I started to ascend. I never had managed to figure out how to stay nuetrally buoyant. As I fumbled with my gear I tried to release some of the air out of my BCD but mistakenly pumped it up instead, which speeded my ascent. I watched helplessly as the coral reef we had just been enjoying disappeared below me. I felt the current almost immediately. It was strong, too strong to swim against.
Faced with this situation I tried to think back to all the instruction I had recieved. But as I tried to form a mental picture of those 3 seperate 1/2 hour DVD sections which constituted the sum total of my training all I could see in my mind´s eye was Roberto, the proprietor of Oceano, saying ¨it´s all just a lot of blah, blah, blah. Let´s go diving!¨
I knew panicking wouldn´t help. I couldn´t see any evidence of my fellow divers below me. I´d finally managed to duck down below the current sweaping me away but had no clue where I was. The ocean can be a dark and lonely place when you´re alone. I knew I should never have rented that stupid move ¨Open Water.¨
The next section of the DVD was supposed to cover decompression. Up until now I had just followed the instructors and assumed they knew what they were doing. So I waited an agonizingly long time, which I assumed to be 5 minutes about 10 feet under water before surfacing. The current had pulled me out past the cove we were exploring and I was heading to open sea. I could see our boat in the distance skimming around. I knew I should have learned to whistle louder, but instead I just shouted ¨hey!¨ a couple of times. I had plenty of oxygen left so I wasn´t too worried, but I really didn´t want to swim all the way over there.
But soon enough they were over to pick me up. It turned out that when we seperated the other 3 divers had surfaced and started hunting for me. ¨Was it scary¨ asked José? ¨Yeah it actually was¨ I replied honestly. ¨Well at least now you´ll have a story to tell you´re kids¨ said the Yalel. ¨It´s ok¨ I told him ¨I´ve got better.¨
I´d finally figured out the secret to Scuba diving, which it turns out is the same as the secret to life. Just keep breathing. But things were getting a little more nuanced under the water and I was feeling like maybe these guys should be teaching me a thing or two about Scuba diving since I was taking a scuba diving course through them.
Taganga is a little fishing village about 1/2 bus ride from Santa Marta, set inside a beautiful bay. It has about 1000 people, 1 paved street and 5 of the cheapest Scuba Diving schools in the world. I picked Oceano because they had the most expensive boat and the cheapest tractor. The first two course days had gone great. Moments after showing up the first day I was falling off of a boat backwards and marvelling at the wonderful world of Jacque Cousteau that lay before me.
The 6th dive was a little different. We descended to 70 feet inside the boundries of Parque Nacional Tayarona, the premier diving spot in mainland Colombia. It started out fine as we cruised along admiring the colorful reefs and fish all around us. Then the Spanish guy and I bumped into each other. I think it was his fault, but since he´s a certified dive master and I don´t know what the heck I´m doing, I´m probably wrong.
He was fine but I started to ascend. I never had managed to figure out how to stay nuetrally buoyant. As I fumbled with my gear I tried to release some of the air out of my BCD but mistakenly pumped it up instead, which speeded my ascent. I watched helplessly as the coral reef we had just been enjoying disappeared below me. I felt the current almost immediately. It was strong, too strong to swim against.
Faced with this situation I tried to think back to all the instruction I had recieved. But as I tried to form a mental picture of those 3 seperate 1/2 hour DVD sections which constituted the sum total of my training all I could see in my mind´s eye was Roberto, the proprietor of Oceano, saying ¨it´s all just a lot of blah, blah, blah. Let´s go diving!¨
I knew panicking wouldn´t help. I couldn´t see any evidence of my fellow divers below me. I´d finally managed to duck down below the current sweaping me away but had no clue where I was. The ocean can be a dark and lonely place when you´re alone. I knew I should never have rented that stupid move ¨Open Water.¨
The next section of the DVD was supposed to cover decompression. Up until now I had just followed the instructors and assumed they knew what they were doing. So I waited an agonizingly long time, which I assumed to be 5 minutes about 10 feet under water before surfacing. The current had pulled me out past the cove we were exploring and I was heading to open sea. I could see our boat in the distance skimming around. I knew I should have learned to whistle louder, but instead I just shouted ¨hey!¨ a couple of times. I had plenty of oxygen left so I wasn´t too worried, but I really didn´t want to swim all the way over there.
But soon enough they were over to pick me up. It turned out that when we seperated the other 3 divers had surfaced and started hunting for me. ¨Was it scary¨ asked José? ¨Yeah it actually was¨ I replied honestly. ¨Well at least now you´ll have a story to tell you´re kids¨ said the Yalel. ¨It´s ok¨ I told him ¨I´ve got better.¨
Sunday, September 03, 2006
Just about ready
When I was in Quito and e-mailing back and forth with Bill trying to make plans to stay in Medellin he asked me how long I was going to be here for. I told him just two weeks, but if I´m having a good time I might extend it to three. Well one month after I got to town I´m finally ready to leave. The same thing happened to me when I started this trip 8 months ago. Two weeks turned into 35 days. Medellin is a great city, as addicting as it´s most famous export.
Marta and I continued our tradition of saying our goodbyes over a media botella de Ron Medellin. It certainly was a roller-coaster ride with her this time throught, but thankfully we managed to end on a high note. And seeing Bill again went swimmingly. I´ve got a feeling we´ll meet again soon, perhaps in Medellin again if one of these business ideas takes off, if not maybe in South Carolina once his new condo is done and the fish are biting again.
I spent the last two months hanging out with family and friends. And now I´m going to head to another city where I´ve never been before and don´t know anyone. Obstensibly I´m going to Santa Marta to take a scuba diving course. I was planning on doing that 8 months ago but I never left Medellin the first time and I realized I should probably learn how to swim before going scuba diving. So now that that´s taken care of there´s nothing to keep me out of the water. There´s also a rather famous archeological ruin 3 days away, which sounds tempting.
After that plans get thrown up in the air again. I´m actually basically ready to head back to the US and put the pieces of my life back together. I´m tempted to just be done with it and book a flight from Cartegena all the way back home. But actually I think I´ll try to find a boat heading to Colon, Panama and continue the rest of the journey by busses and trains eventually crossing the border from Tijuana to San Diego.
That also lets me hedge my bets just in case I´m wrong and that Cuban salsa band I´ve been dying to see does eventually get their visa situation straightened out and make it off the island for their Mexican tour. Actually most of them are there already, they´re just missing one of the singers. But I´m trying not to get my hopes up.
Either way this has been by far the best thing I´ve ever done in my life. When I reflect back on all the ridiculous experiences I´ve had and the hodgepodge band of hooligans I´ve met I can´t help but think how my life would be the same as it was before had I just stayed in Seattle working for Microsoft. My biggest concern now is that when I get back and try to acclimate myself to a ¨regular¨ lifestyle I´m just going to want to take off on another trip.
I hear Thailand and Vietnam are really fascinating, jungles, beaches and great food. But I never did get to the northern coast of Brazil and Portuguese is similar enough to Spanish I think I could pick it up pretty easily. Of course parts of Eastern Europe are still pretty cheap and it´s very accessible. And maybe I could just go work on my Hindi in India. Addicting indeed.
When I was in Quito and e-mailing back and forth with Bill trying to make plans to stay in Medellin he asked me how long I was going to be here for. I told him just two weeks, but if I´m having a good time I might extend it to three. Well one month after I got to town I´m finally ready to leave. The same thing happened to me when I started this trip 8 months ago. Two weeks turned into 35 days. Medellin is a great city, as addicting as it´s most famous export.
Marta and I continued our tradition of saying our goodbyes over a media botella de Ron Medellin. It certainly was a roller-coaster ride with her this time throught, but thankfully we managed to end on a high note. And seeing Bill again went swimmingly. I´ve got a feeling we´ll meet again soon, perhaps in Medellin again if one of these business ideas takes off, if not maybe in South Carolina once his new condo is done and the fish are biting again.
I spent the last two months hanging out with family and friends. And now I´m going to head to another city where I´ve never been before and don´t know anyone. Obstensibly I´m going to Santa Marta to take a scuba diving course. I was planning on doing that 8 months ago but I never left Medellin the first time and I realized I should probably learn how to swim before going scuba diving. So now that that´s taken care of there´s nothing to keep me out of the water. There´s also a rather famous archeological ruin 3 days away, which sounds tempting.
After that plans get thrown up in the air again. I´m actually basically ready to head back to the US and put the pieces of my life back together. I´m tempted to just be done with it and book a flight from Cartegena all the way back home. But actually I think I´ll try to find a boat heading to Colon, Panama and continue the rest of the journey by busses and trains eventually crossing the border from Tijuana to San Diego.
That also lets me hedge my bets just in case I´m wrong and that Cuban salsa band I´ve been dying to see does eventually get their visa situation straightened out and make it off the island for their Mexican tour. Actually most of them are there already, they´re just missing one of the singers. But I´m trying not to get my hopes up.
Either way this has been by far the best thing I´ve ever done in my life. When I reflect back on all the ridiculous experiences I´ve had and the hodgepodge band of hooligans I´ve met I can´t help but think how my life would be the same as it was before had I just stayed in Seattle working for Microsoft. My biggest concern now is that when I get back and try to acclimate myself to a ¨regular¨ lifestyle I´m just going to want to take off on another trip.
I hear Thailand and Vietnam are really fascinating, jungles, beaches and great food. But I never did get to the northern coast of Brazil and Portuguese is similar enough to Spanish I think I could pick it up pretty easily. Of course parts of Eastern Europe are still pretty cheap and it´s very accessible. And maybe I could just go work on my Hindi in India. Addicting indeed.
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