Bolivia at long last

After spending a few more days exploring Northern Argentina I decided to cross into Bolivia. The border was only a short 5 hour bus ride from Jujuy and I spent just about all of it staring out the window the landscape unfolded.

Both the Argentinean and Bolivian customs and immigrations were suprising efficient. The border town of Villazon however did not seem to have much to offer, and my plan was to get out of there quick. I was hoping Villazon wasn´t representative of the rest of Bolivia.

I knew I wanted to explore the Solar de Uyuni, the highest salt flat in the world. It seems like there are a lot of sights in Bolivia that are prefaced with ¨the highest blah blah blah in the world.¨ I suppose that´s because Bolivia is pretty high, must be the coca leaves they sell freely in the markets.

But I found out that the train to Uyuni didn´t run on tuesdays and that left me with the option of waiting around for another day or taking the a collectivo across the dirt roads for 7 hours. But a friendly Bolivian who noticed the disappointed look on my face suggested I head to Tupiza instead, only two hours away by collectivo. Lots to do and see he assured me. And since the Lonely Planet seemed to confirm this idea I hopped on the next bus out of town.

Bolivia is the poorest country in South America, and everything I passed by proved to be a testament to that fact. And of course that means everything regarding tourism is quite cheap. When I arrived at the nicest hostel in Tupiza I was told a dorm room was 20 Bolivianos ($2.50) per night, but I could get a private room with a private bath for 35 Bolivianos ($4.50). So I decided to splurge.

Tupiza is a charming little town set among the broken rock face of the surrounding mountains. It´s main claim to fame is that it was the scene of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid´s last heist before they were gunned down just a few 100 kilometers away. I´m constantly amazed when I realize how small this world has become in the last several years, but it´s stranger still to think it´s been small enough, long enough that two characters that I unequivacably associate with the Wild West met there fate in Southwestern Bolivia a 100 years ago.

The next day I arranged for a guide to take me on horseback through the same canyons and valleys that those two outlaws rode through so many years ago. This was actually my first experience being on a horse amazingly enough. There was that 15 minute pony-ride in Colombia but that hardly counts.

Horses are great animals, but the steering can be a little tricky. It´s like they have a mind of their own. 2nd gear was pretty unconfortable but when that horse kicked it into a gallop the ride got real fun real fast. I found myself annoyed once again that I´d lost my camera in Buenos Aires, one of these days I really must buy a new one.

The good part about the 5 hour ride around Southwest Bolivia is I may no longer have to worry about whether or not I want to have kids, I´m not sure I can procreate anymore, saddle sores are no joking matter.

Tomorrow I head off on a 4 day jeep trek across the Solar de Uyuni, I´m not really sure what to expect but I hear the salt flats are a sight to be seen. So far, Bolivia is treating me pretty well.